In the film The Stepford Wives, Glenn Close plays the role of Claire Wellington. Her costumes, designed by Ann Roth, reflect the hyperfeminine and conformist period of middle to upper class women in the early 1960s. As Roth began designing for this film, she took into account Close’s personality and physical appearance to create costume pieces which would allow the character, a former brain surgeon turned anti-feminist evil mastermind, to come to life.

In particular we see this yellow evening gown which is created from striped silk topped with a rhinestone and lace bolero jacket. The gown accentuates Close’s tiny, corseted waist, emphasizing her ultra-feminine appearance. The luxurious silk, rhinestones, and lace are all expensive materials which speak to the upper-class social status of Claire Wellington. Each choice made by the designer is crucial in creating the overall identity of the character. The clothing, when combined with the hair, makeup, and other accessories, completely transform the actress into the character at hand. 

Ann Roth is responsible for planning the intricate details of each costume and how they work to create the character’s identity. However, in many cases, the designer is not responsible for the construction of a garment. Costume shops such as Barbara Matera and Eric Winterling have large workrooms staffed with talented makers such as cutters, drapers, and feather and bead specialists who are responsible for building these unique costumes. Working from designer’s sketches and text, makers transform two dimensional ideas into a wardrobe for a character that the audience can believe in.

In the film The World According to Garp, Glenn Close plays the role of Jenny Fields, a WWII era nurse and mother. Her nurse’s uniform and overcoat, designed by Academy Award-Winning designer Ann Roth, became a wardrobe staple for Jenny, as she grows from single mother into feminist hero. The simple white cotton dress captivated Close and inspired her costume collecting mission. The precise fit and hand-finished details of Fields’ costumes convinced Close that these were unique garments worth preserving.

In contrast to many of the more elaborate looks designed by Roth and worn by Close, this understated uniform speaks volumes about its character. Jenny Fields is not defined by her uniform but wears it as a public sign of her professional conviction and compassion for others. The modest WWII-era utilitarian dress is no-nonsense and practical, like Jenny herself. We see Jenny in her uniform numerous times throughout the film, each time bringing more authority to this pedestrian garment.

In the film Dangerous Liaisons, Close plays the role of Marquise de Merteuil. The costumes, designed by James Acheson, highlight the 1760s and tell the story of a powerful French aristocrat. Acheson referenced eighteenth-century French paintings to source ideas for these period costumes and examined extant garments in museums and private collections, ultimately designing visually appealing and relatable costume pieces.

Every detail of this gown is based on historical accuracy, including the fabric, patterns, colors, and fit. The panniers worn under the dress create the iconic horizontal eighteenth-century silhouette. In the film, Close is shown being dressed by her attendants as they buckle her into the steel cage-style panniers. For the duration of the film, laced and boned muslin panniers were worn under costumes, a different, but historically accurate style. In the video, you can see the underskirts layered and worn over the panniers. Close also wore a late 18th century-style corset under her gowns, which helped the actress achieve the necessary cone-shaped torso and lifted and compressed bustline of the time.

Costumes such as this played a significant role in how the character was played on screen. The way she moved on screen was directly impacted by her costume, especially the corset and panniers, which were essential elements in the transformation of Close as the Marquise de Merteuil. Close has worn corsets in many of her other films, including 101 and 102 Dalmatians, The Stepford Wives, and the Sarah Plain and Tall films. Each element of a costume revealed new aspects of the character and helped Close to become immersed in her role.